HackerDojo Wiki - User contributions [en]

File:MABU2 VLC Install Home Screen.png

2024-12-24T07:16:37Z

Do'h:

P-touch

2024-12-15T20:23:08Z

Do'h: /* pre-requisites */

brother line of label printers generally know as "P-touch".

Process of setting up to print labels directly over USB from a linux computer.

Source: https://git.familie-radermacher.ch/linux/ptouch-print.git/

Tips: https://github.com/HenrikBengtsson/brother-ptouch-label-printer-on-linux

Bar code Generator: https://github.com/zint/zint/tree/master

=== example ===

<code>~/ptouch-print/build/ptouch-print --text 'hellorld!'</code>

=== pre-requisites ===

<pre>
sudo apt update
sudo apt install cmake
sudo apt install build-essential
sudo apt install gettext
sudo apt install libgd-dev
sudo apt install pkg-config
sudo apt install libusb-1.0-0-dev
</pre>

For zint bar code make:
<pre>
sudo apt install qttools5-dev qttools5-dev-tools libqt5svg5-dev
</pre>

...error finding shared library fix
<pre>
sudo ldconfig
</pre>

=== package build ===
<pre>
git clone https://git.familie-radermacher.ch/linux/ptouch-print.git
cd ptouch-print/
./build.sh
</pre>

P-touch

2024-12-15T20:10:25Z

Do'h:

brother line of label printers generally know as "P-touch".

Process of setting up to print labels directly over USB from a linux computer.

Source: https://git.familie-radermacher.ch/linux/ptouch-print.git/

Tips: https://github.com/HenrikBengtsson/brother-ptouch-label-printer-on-linux

Bar code Generator: https://github.com/zint/zint/tree/master

=== example ===

<code>~/ptouch-print/build/ptouch-print --text 'hellorld!'</code>

=== pre-requisites ===

<pre>
sudo apt update
sudo apt install cmake
sudo apt install build-essential
sudo apt install gettext
sudo apt install libgd-dev
sudo apt install pkg-config
sudo apt install libusb-1.0-0-dev
</pre>

For zint bar code make:
<pre>
sudo apt install qttools5-dev qttools5-dev-tools libqt5svg5-dev
</pre>

=== package build ===
<pre>
git clone https://git.familie-radermacher.ch/linux/ptouch-print.git
cd ptouch-print/
./build.sh
</pre>

P-touch

2024-12-15T20:02:59Z

Do'h: hellorld!

brother line of label printers generally know as "P-touch".

Process of setting up to print labels directly over USB from a linux computer.

Source: https://git.familie-radermacher.ch/linux/ptouch-print.git/

Tips: https://github.com/HenrikBengtsson/brother-ptouch-label-printer-on-linux

Bar code Generator: https://github.com/zint/zint/tree/master

=== example ===

~/ptouch-print/build/ptouch-print --text 'hellorld!'

=== pre-requisites ===

<pre>
sudo apt update
sudo apt install cmake
sudo apt install build-essential
sudo apt install gettext
sudo apt install libgd-dev
sudo apt install pkg-config
sudo apt install libusb-1.0-0-dev
</pre>

=== package build ===
<pre>
git clone https://git.familie-radermacher.ch/linux/ptouch-print.git
cd ptouch-print/
./build.sh
</pre>

P-touch

2024-12-15T19:33:51Z

Do'h: hellorld, print me a label

brother line of label printers generally know as "P-touch".

Process of setting up to print labels directly over USB from a linux computer.

Tips: https://github.com/HenrikBengtsson/brother-ptouch-label-printer-on-linux

=== pre-requisites ==

<pre>
sudo apt update
sudo apt install cmake
sudo apt install build-essential
sudo apt install gettext
sudo apt install libgd-dev
sudo apt install pkg-config
sudo apt install libusb-1.0-0-dev
</pre>

=== package build ===
<pre>
git clone https://git.familie-radermacher.ch/linux/ptouch-print.git
cd ptouch-print/
./build.sh
</pre>

VESC Motor Drivers

2024-12-13T23:13:00Z

Do'h:

For many robotics applications you can certainly use standard DC motors in an H-Drive format, or you can build with one of the three phase motors kicking around the dojo.

A good resource for driving them (They are definitely more complicated) you can use the well thought out open VESC project:
[Vesc Project](https://vesc-project.com/)

You can find the downloads for the free version of Vesc-Tool here:
<a href="https://vesc-project.com/download/19">vesc_tool_free_linux.zip</a>
<a href="https://vesc-project.com/download/20">vesc_tool_free_windows.zip</a>
<a href="https://vesc-project.com/download/25">vesc_tool_android.zip</a>
<a href="https://vesc-project.com/download/30">vesc_tool_mac.zip</a>
<a href="https://vesc-project.com/download/28">vesc_tool_BETA_ALL.zip</a>
https://vesc-project.com/download/28%22%3Evesc_tool_BETA_ALL.zip%3C/a%3E

VESC Motor Drivers

2024-12-13T23:07:38Z

Do'h: VESC Project and Three Phase Motors

Access

2024-12-11T04:29:08Z

Do'h:

<strike><big>GRANTED</big></strike>

== Readers ==

Several 125 kHz devices were dumpster dive recovered from prior 855 Maude purge and being EXPERIMENTAL'd do-ocracy style for great lulz.

[https://avea.cc/web08s/ Product Page]

[https://avea.cc/spec/web08s.pdf Manual (PDF)]

<pre>
LAB0 00:13:00:00:22:2f 192.168.1.100 AVEA-00130000222F Sat Jun 12 00:02:45 2010
</pre>

== fobs ==

=== ENABLED ===
* 0012514585

=== DISABLED ===
* 0013473798

Printer

2024-12-11T04:23:13Z

Do'h: Created page with "<big>"2D" Printer(s)</big> == Electronics Lab == The lab is equipped with a Brother Black & White Laser Printer type MFC-8480DN. Featuring paper tray (loaded with 8.5x11") and a rear feeder for loading other and thicker materials. It also has a scanner on top with automatic page loader. It can be used either as a copier or scanner aside from USB and Networked printing capabilities. This printer was donated in November 2024 to DEFAULT and is being restored for as open..."

<big>"2D" Printer(s)</big>

== Electronics Lab ==

The lab is equipped with a Brother Black & White Laser Printer type MFC-8480DN. Featuring paper tray (loaded with 8.5x11") and a rear feeder for loading other and thicker materials. It also has a scanner on top with automatic page loader. It can be used either as a copier or scanner aside from USB and Networked printing capabilities.

This printer was donated in November 2024 to DEFAULT and is being restored for as open as possible access to hackers. The printer arrived fairly dirty and the outside has been washed and cleaned.

The printer was last connected by USB to the <code>princelotus</code> computer on the bench between 3D printers.

WSW (Wireless Scroll Wheel)

2024-12-06T05:15:14Z

Do'h: Created page with "I remember it like it was yesterday, or even still today... Problem: That perfect mouse or trackball, if only it had a middle finger friendly scroll wheel. Solution: Re-claimed device turned 0-d wheel mod. Profit: Plausible, build one to get started anyways."

I remember it like it was yesterday, or even still today...

Problem: That perfect mouse or trackball, if only it had a middle finger friendly scroll wheel.

Solution: Re-claimed device turned 0-d wheel mod.

Profit: Plausible, build one to get started anyways.

ROS 2 (Robot Operating System)

2024-12-06T04:23:27Z

Do'h: not a donught, among other things

ROS - Robot Operating System

The Robot Operating System (ROS) is a set of software libraries and tools that help you build robot applications. From drivers to state-of-the-art algorithms, and with powerful developer tools, ROS has what you need for your next robotics project. And it's all open source.

--ros.org

Currently tested and supported for Ubuntu LTS 22.04, next/current release targets Ubuntu 24.

The active stable release of ROS 2 is called "Humble".

https://docs.ros.org/en/humble/index.html

Installing and testing for integration with FAIRINO Robotic Arms, particularly the FR5.

https://fair-documentation.readthedocs.io/en/latest/ROSGuide/ros2guide.html

Arcade

2024-12-01T10:01:54Z

Do'h: /* Moving Mission November 2024 */

Pending · Free Arcade machine Projects

[[File:MAME Arcade Game Cabinet.jpg]]
[[File:X-Men Arcade Game Cabinet.jpg]]
[[File:Lucky and Wild Arcade Game Cabinet.jpg]]

$1
Listed 6 days ago
6 days ago
in San Jose, CA

Door pickup
Details

Condition
Used - Fair

I have three to four machines offered free first come first serve. I just moved to my new warehouse so Im out of space and need to move on from these projects

Lucky and Wild is fairly rare. Most of it is there to sort out but I never powered it up or got around to this one. Aquired in a big purchase.

The converted Techmo Cab was soulcalibur and with a slimmed down CP. I took the game monitor and power supply tonget another machine running. This will be fairly empty. perfect for LCD conversions and Pandora builds.

Dynamo HS1 - dressed with a capcom fighting game. It has a dead 25" monitor stuffed into it. no back door.

I also have a Koam K3 Z - cab. Red with no monitor. 6 button CP and no game. its a peeling cab that can be repainted and fixed up. its still quite a project but a popular cab and Free.

Anyone that can take all cabs goes immediately to the front if the line.

Located in San Jose. Warehouse doors for easy loading. Get something with a lift gate.

== Moving Mission November 2024 ==

[[File:Hacker Dojo Volunteers 'Arcade Gamers' 2024.jpeg|800px]]

Load Capt'n Rike
Un-Load Capt'n Scruffy
Levels By: 'That new level builder'

[[File:Lucky & Wild Arcade Game 'Art'.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Arcade Game Moving Mission 2024 'Optimism'.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Arcade Game 'Ready to Ship' 2024.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Arcade Game 'Parked' 2024.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Arcade Game 'Destinated' 2024.jpeg|800px]]

Arcade

2024-12-01T10:01:33Z

Do'h:

Pending · Free Arcade machine Projects

[[File:MAME Arcade Game Cabinet.jpg]]
[[File:X-Men Arcade Game Cabinet.jpg]]
[[File:Lucky and Wild Arcade Game Cabinet.jpg]]

$1
Listed 6 days ago
6 days ago
in San Jose, CA

Door pickup
Details

Condition
Used - Fair

I have three to four machines offered free first come first serve. I just moved to my new warehouse so Im out of space and need to move on from these projects

Lucky and Wild is fairly rare. Most of it is there to sort out but I never powered it up or got around to this one. Aquired in a big purchase.

The converted Techmo Cab was soulcalibur and with a slimmed down CP. I took the game monitor and power supply tonget another machine running. This will be fairly empty. perfect for LCD conversions and Pandora builds.

Dynamo HS1 - dressed with a capcom fighting game. It has a dead 25" monitor stuffed into it. no back door.

I also have a Koam K3 Z - cab. Red with no monitor. 6 button CP and no game. its a peeling cab that can be repainted and fixed up. its still quite a project but a popular cab and Free.

Anyone that can take all cabs goes immediately to the front if the line.

Located in San Jose. Warehouse doors for easy loading. Get something with a lift gate.

== Moving Mission November 2024 ==

[[FileFile:Hacker Dojo Volunteers 'Arcade Gamers' 2024.jpeg|800px]]

Load Capt'n Rike
Un-Load Capt'n Scruffy
Levels By: 'That new level builder'

[[File:Lucky & Wild Arcade Game 'Art'.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Arcade Game Moving Mission 2024 'Optimism'.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Arcade Game 'Ready to Ship' 2024.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Arcade Game 'Parked' 2024.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Arcade Game 'Destinated' 2024.jpeg|800px]]

File:Hacker Dojo Volunteers 'Arcade Gamers' 2024.jpeg

2024-12-01T10:00:51Z

Do'h:

Arcade

2024-12-01T09:57:51Z

Do'h:

Pending · Free Arcade machine Projects

[[File:MAME Arcade Game Cabinet.jpg]]
[[File:X-Men Arcade Game Cabinet.jpg]]
[[File:Lucky and Wild Arcade Game Cabinet.jpg]]

$1
Listed 6 days ago
6 days ago
in San Jose, CA

Door pickup
Details

Condition
Used - Fair

I have three to four machines offered free first come first serve. I just moved to my new warehouse so Im out of space and need to move on from these projects

Lucky and Wild is fairly rare. Most of it is there to sort out but I never powered it up or got around to this one. Aquired in a big purchase.

The converted Techmo Cab was soulcalibur and with a slimmed down CP. I took the game monitor and power supply tonget another machine running. This will be fairly empty. perfect for LCD conversions and Pandora builds.

Dynamo HS1 - dressed with a capcom fighting game. It has a dead 25" monitor stuffed into it. no back door.

I also have a Koam K3 Z - cab. Red with no monitor. 6 button CP and no game. its a peeling cab that can be repainted and fixed up. its still quite a project but a popular cab and Free.

Anyone that can take all cabs goes immediately to the front if the line.

Located in San Jose. Warehouse doors for easy loading. Get something with a lift gate.

== Moving Mission November 2024 ==

Load Capt'n Rike
Un-Load Capt'n Scruffy
Levels By: 'That new level builder'

[[File:Lucky & Wild Arcade Game 'Art'.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Arcade Game Moving Mission 2024 'Optimism'.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Arcade Game 'Ready to Ship' 2024.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Arcade Game 'Parked' 2024.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Arcade Game 'Destinated' 2024.jpeg|800px]]

File:Arcade Game 'Destinated' 2024.jpeg

2024-12-01T09:52:23Z

Do'h:

File:Arcade Game 'Parked' 2024.jpeg

2024-12-01T09:51:58Z

Do'h:

File:Arcade Game 'Ready to Ship' 2024.jpeg

2024-12-01T09:51:22Z

Do'h:

File:Arcade Game Storage 'Skeptisism' 2024.jpeg

2024-12-01T09:50:40Z

Do'h:

File:Arcade Game Moving Mission 2024 'Optimism'.jpeg

2024-12-01T09:49:55Z

Do'h:

File:Lucky & Wild Arcade Game 'Art'.jpeg

2024-12-01T09:49:22Z

Do'h:

BBQ

2024-12-01T04:31:42Z

Do'h: Created page with "Hot Links Sausegs Chicken Pork Slow Cooked Ribs OUTSIDE NOW!"

Hot Links Sausegs
Chicken
Pork Slow Cooked Ribs

OUTSIDE NOW!

Arcade

2024-11-28T22:26:28Z

Do'h:

File:MAME Arcade Game Cabinet.jpg

2024-11-28T22:20:12Z

Do'h:

File:X-Men Arcade Game Cabinet.jpg

2024-11-28T22:19:23Z

Do'h:

File:Lucky and Wild Arcade Game Cabinet.jpg

2024-11-28T22:16:25Z

Do'h:

Arcade

2024-11-28T22:05:02Z

Do'h: Created page with "Pending · Free Arcade machine Projects $1 Listed 6 days ago 6 days ago in San Jose, CA Door pickup Details Condition Used - Fair I have three to four machines offered free first come first serve. I just moved to my new warehouse so Im out of space and need to move on from these projects Lucky and Wild is fairly rare. Most of it is there to sort out but I never powered it up or got around to this one. Aquired in a big purchase. The converted Techmo Cab..."

Pending · Free Arcade machine Projects
$1
Listed 6 days ago
6 days ago
in San Jose, CA

Door pickup
Details

Condition
Used - Fair

I have three to four machines offered free first come first serve. I just moved to my new warehouse so Im out of space and need to move on from these projects

Lucky and Wild is fairly rare. Most of it is there to sort out but I never powered it up or got around to this one. Aquired in a big purchase.

The converted Techmo Cab was soulcalibur and with a slimmed down CP. I took the game monitor and power supply tonget another machine running. This will be fairly empty. perfect for LCD conversions and Pandora builds.

Dynamo HS1 - dressed with a capcom fighting game. It has a dead 25" monitor stuffed into it. no back door.

I also have a Koam K3 Z - cab. Red with no monitor. 6 button CP and no game. its a peeling cab that can be repainted and fixed up. its still quite a project but a popular cab and Free.

Anyone that can take all cabs goes immediately to the front if the line.

Located in San Jose. Warehouse doors for easy loading. Get something with a lift gate.

Food Robots

2024-11-26T02:13:25Z

Do'h: Created page with "https://www.brewbird.com/ https://www.blendid.com/ https://olirobotics.com/ maybe with robots soon: https://www.huntbrotherspizza.com/partnerwithus/"

https://www.brewbird.com/

https://www.blendid.com/

https://olirobotics.com/

maybe with robots soon: https://www.huntbrotherspizza.com/partnerwithus/

User talk:Do'h

2024-11-14T01:46:02Z

Do'h: WANTED!

<big>HELP WANTED!</big>

Upgrading the Electronics Lab

If interested in Soldering,

3D Printing or Radio's

Please come over and say hello

Wednesday 5:55 - 6:55PM

<s>donughts</s>

Qduino

2024-11-07T08:00:13Z

Do'h: push button blinky distance

[[File:Qduino Mini Schematic.png]]

<pre>
#define trigPin 1
#define echoPin 0

// the setup function runs once when you press reset or power the board
void setup() {
// initialize digital pin LED_BUILTIN as an output.
Serial.begin(9600);
pinMode(trigPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(echoPin, INPUT);
pinMode(10, OUTPUT);
pinMode(2, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(2, LOW);
pinMode(4, INPUT_PULLUP);
}

// the loop function runs over and over again forever
void loop() {
bool HIGH_LOW = digitalRead(4);
digitalWrite(10, HIGH_LOW);
digitalWrite(2, !HIGH_LOW);
ping();
}

void ping() {
long duration, distance;
digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW); // Added this line
delayMicroseconds(2); // Added this line
digitalWrite(trigPin, HIGH);
// delayMicroseconds(1000); - Removed this line
delayMicroseconds(10); // Added this line
digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);
duration = pulseIn(echoPin, HIGH);
distance = (duration/2) / 29.1;
Serial.println(distance);
}

void blink() {
digitalWrite(10, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
digitalWrite(2, HIGH);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(2, LOW);
delay(900); // wait for a second
digitalWrite(10, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
delay(1000);
}
</pre>

* https://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Dev/Arduino/Boards/Qduino_Mini_v14.pdf
* https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13614
* https://www.hackster.io/team-qtechknow/qduino-mini-quickstart-guide-8b2d68

File:Qduino Mini Schematic.png

2024-11-07T07:59:31Z

Do'h: https://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Dev/Arduino/Boards/Qduino_Mini_v14.pdf

== Summary ==
https://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Dev/Arduino/Boards/Qduino_Mini_v14.pdf

Qduino

2024-11-07T07:59:02Z

Do'h: hellorld!

* https://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Dev/Arduino/Boards/Qduino_Mini_v14.pdf
* https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13614
* https://www.hackster.io/team-qtechknow/qduino-mini-quickstart-guide-8b2d68

3D Printers

2024-10-12T03:51:10Z

Do'h: /* Original Prusa i3 MK3S */ ???

We have 3 3D printers in the makerspace. While 3D printers can be used in a variety of ways, we have some policies to keep our printers functioning well.

==Filament==

Your filament should be kept clean and dry. Dust and dirt on the filament will clog the hot print head and cause your print to fail.

===PLA and ABS===
Recommended for new users. The 3D printers can use other materials, but they each introduce some complexity to the print process. Until you are very familiar with 3D printing and how other materials affect the printing, use PLA and ABS.
* PLA easily absorbs water from the environment. PLA should be stored in a sealed plastic zip lock bag and you should add desiccant packages inside the bag.
* Never use glue on the bed with PLA or ABS.
* Never run PLA above 230C. Higher temperatures cause PLA to carbonize and permanently clog the print head.
* Do not let PLA sit in an idle hot print head for more than three minutes. Even at the specified working temperature PLA will carbonize and permanently clog the print head. (For instance, don't start the printer to heat up and then go out to get a cup of coffee.)

===PET-G===
A good material when you are ready to move up.
*PET-G comes in a variety of specific materials that offer more dimensional stability.
*PET-G requires the use of glue on the bed. The glue is NOT for adhesion. Rather, the glue is used to prevent the part from sticking to the bed and ruining it. If you don't use glue with PET-G you will ruin the print bed.
**Use a purple, washable Elmer's glue stick. Put on just a very, very, very think coat of the glue.
**Put the glue on while the bed is cool.
**Put the glue over a large part of the bed, but not near the corners.
**After you print one part you can position your print to a portion of the bed that has been glued, but has not been printed on yet.

=== TPU ===
* You MUST use glue for release with TPU.

===Strength===
There are different aspects to "strength", and no material wins in all categories. PLA is rigid, but that can make it brittle, so PLA is seldom the choice for parts needing strength. ABS has long been the choice for functional parts. The printed parts of the Lulzbot are made of ABS. So is Lego. But ABS warps, which is a problem on bigger prints. Nylon and polycarbonate have some great characteristics, but they are tricky to work with, and they aggressively absorb moisture from the air, so you have to keep baking your filament to dry it out. Scroll back to July 18 for some discussion of PC-MAX, a brand of polycarbonate. PET-G is really a wide range of materials, with a wide range of properties. I like ColorFab-HT, although it prints at high temperature, making warpage more of an issue. Most PET-G doesn't warp much at all. A lot of people rave about Innova-1800, although I always had a hard time getting it to stick to the bed. nGen is an easy-to-use PET-G. All of these can be used on the Lulzbot.

==3D Toolkit==
Consider making up your own 3D printer toolkit.
* hex wrenches
* putty knife
* long tweezers
* non-scratching, lint free wipes
* 30% isopropanol and water
* clam knife
* if you need it: Purple, washable Elmer's glue stick

== PRUSA ==

=== Original Prusa MINI ===

1.75mm Filament, 0.4mm Nozzle

Smooth heated print bed

Updated to last firmware, tested and calibrated April 2024

Updated to v6.0.4 firmware, tested and calibrated August 2024

UNKNOWN firmware updated to incompatible version. BRICKED

UN-BRICKED; Updated to v6.1.2 firmware, tested verified calibration October 2024

=== Original Prusa i3 MK3S ===

1.75mm Filament, 0.4mm Nozzle

Smooth heated print bed

Updated to latest firmware, tested and calibrated April 2024

Updated to 3.14.0 firmware, tested and calibrated August 2024

Ready for upgrade, printing is so so even with newer filament
Seems to have been abused a bit with really high temperature filaments and bed temps
Spells like toxic and burned bits coming out, mostly functional, still some consistency issues
[[User:Do'h|Do'h]] ([[User talk:Do'h|talk]]) 20:51, 11 October 2024 (PDT)

=== Original Prusa i3, upgraded to MK3S ===

1.75mm Filament, 0.6mm Nozzle

Textured bed, adhesion sometimes inconsistent.

Updated to latest firmware, tested and calibrated April 2024

==TAZ==

The carriage frame of the TAZ must be square for the printer to work well. The TAZ should NOT be moved around the shop. Every time you move it you risk tweaking the frame. Leave the TAZ where it is!

The TAZ has a heated bed. The bed is easily scratched and damaged. Do not pull your part off the bed. Do not gouge at the bed. A new bed costs $150.

* Design
** You should print a skirt to 3, especially for small parts

* Start up
** While the bed is cool use the 30% alcohol solution and a paper towel to clean the bed of any residue from the previous user.
** Also clean the leveling spots on the four corners of the bed.
** Heat the nozzle to 200C
** When hot,
*** Pull the old filament from the print head
*** Insert your filament into the head.
*** Purge the print head by running filament. Don't be afraid of wasting filament, this is an important step.

* Operation
** As printing starts, watch the head and remove the "booger" of filament that forms before the actual printing starts. This will give you a cleaner start to your print.

* Part release
** Let the bed cool completely before releasing your part.
** Use the clam knife to GENTLY lift the skirt from around your part.
** Now use the putty knife
*** Place the putty knife flat on the bed with the edge of the blade against the edge of your part.
*** Rap the end of the putty knife with a small hammer. A tap is all it takes and your part will pop off.
*** DO NOT pry your part from the bed. This will delaminate the bed and ruin it.

* Shutdown
** Do not pull your filament from the hot head. The head has probably cooled by now and you risk breaking off your filament in the print head.
** Instead, snip off your filament outside of the print head, leaving two inches of filament.
** When the bed is cool, use a damp paper towel to wipe off the bed. If you used glue, wipe until no more purple is seen on your towel.

=== LULZBOT TAZ 6 ===

Currently parked in Laser Lab. Has 1.75mm and 2.85mm extruder?

=== LULZBOT TAZ 6 (Dual Extruder) ===

Configured with dual 1.75mm extruders. Currently being tested and configured in Electronics Lab.

Has 1.75mm and 2.85mm dual extruders, and single extruder.

Cura LE loaded on Mac workstation. For working with dual filaments, select the models and use the Merge Models then slice.

==Makerbot==

Legacy printer, none of this type currently at Hacker Dojo

3D Printers

2024-10-12T03:44:41Z

Do'h: /* Original Prusa MINI */ v6.1.2 back to functional

We have 3 3D printers in the makerspace. While 3D printers can be used in a variety of ways, we have some policies to keep our printers functioning well.

==Filament==

Your filament should be kept clean and dry. Dust and dirt on the filament will clog the hot print head and cause your print to fail.

===PLA and ABS===
Recommended for new users. The 3D printers can use other materials, but they each introduce some complexity to the print process. Until you are very familiar with 3D printing and how other materials affect the printing, use PLA and ABS.
* PLA easily absorbs water from the environment. PLA should be stored in a sealed plastic zip lock bag and you should add desiccant packages inside the bag.
* Never use glue on the bed with PLA or ABS.
* Never run PLA above 230C. Higher temperatures cause PLA to carbonize and permanently clog the print head.
* Do not let PLA sit in an idle hot print head for more than three minutes. Even at the specified working temperature PLA will carbonize and permanently clog the print head. (For instance, don't start the printer to heat up and then go out to get a cup of coffee.)

===PET-G===
A good material when you are ready to move up.
*PET-G comes in a variety of specific materials that offer more dimensional stability.
*PET-G requires the use of glue on the bed. The glue is NOT for adhesion. Rather, the glue is used to prevent the part from sticking to the bed and ruining it. If you don't use glue with PET-G you will ruin the print bed.
**Use a purple, washable Elmer's glue stick. Put on just a very, very, very think coat of the glue.
**Put the glue on while the bed is cool.
**Put the glue over a large part of the bed, but not near the corners.
**After you print one part you can position your print to a portion of the bed that has been glued, but has not been printed on yet.

=== TPU ===
* You MUST use glue for release with TPU.

===Strength===
There are different aspects to "strength", and no material wins in all categories. PLA is rigid, but that can make it brittle, so PLA is seldom the choice for parts needing strength. ABS has long been the choice for functional parts. The printed parts of the Lulzbot are made of ABS. So is Lego. But ABS warps, which is a problem on bigger prints. Nylon and polycarbonate have some great characteristics, but they are tricky to work with, and they aggressively absorb moisture from the air, so you have to keep baking your filament to dry it out. Scroll back to July 18 for some discussion of PC-MAX, a brand of polycarbonate. PET-G is really a wide range of materials, with a wide range of properties. I like ColorFab-HT, although it prints at high temperature, making warpage more of an issue. Most PET-G doesn't warp much at all. A lot of people rave about Innova-1800, although I always had a hard time getting it to stick to the bed. nGen is an easy-to-use PET-G. All of these can be used on the Lulzbot.

==3D Toolkit==
Consider making up your own 3D printer toolkit.
* hex wrenches
* putty knife
* long tweezers
* non-scratching, lint free wipes
* 30% isopropanol and water
* clam knife
* if you need it: Purple, washable Elmer's glue stick

== PRUSA ==

=== Original Prusa MINI ===

1.75mm Filament, 0.4mm Nozzle

Smooth heated print bed

Updated to last firmware, tested and calibrated April 2024

Updated to v6.0.4 firmware, tested and calibrated August 2024

UNKNOWN firmware updated to incompatible version. BRICKED

UN-BRICKED; Updated to v6.1.2 firmware, tested verified calibration October 2024

=== Original Prusa i3 MK3S ===

1.75mm Filament, 0.4mm Nozzle

Smooth heated print bed

Updated to latest firmware, tested and calibrated April 2024

Updated to 3.14.0 firmware, tested and calibrated August 2024

=== Original Prusa i3, upgraded to MK3S ===

1.75mm Filament, 0.6mm Nozzle

Textured bed, adhesion sometimes inconsistent.

Updated to latest firmware, tested and calibrated April 2024

==TAZ==

The carriage frame of the TAZ must be square for the printer to work well. The TAZ should NOT be moved around the shop. Every time you move it you risk tweaking the frame. Leave the TAZ where it is!

The TAZ has a heated bed. The bed is easily scratched and damaged. Do not pull your part off the bed. Do not gouge at the bed. A new bed costs $150.

* Design
** You should print a skirt to 3, especially for small parts

* Start up
** While the bed is cool use the 30% alcohol solution and a paper towel to clean the bed of any residue from the previous user.
** Also clean the leveling spots on the four corners of the bed.
** Heat the nozzle to 200C
** When hot,
*** Pull the old filament from the print head
*** Insert your filament into the head.
*** Purge the print head by running filament. Don't be afraid of wasting filament, this is an important step.

* Operation
** As printing starts, watch the head and remove the "booger" of filament that forms before the actual printing starts. This will give you a cleaner start to your print.

* Part release
** Let the bed cool completely before releasing your part.
** Use the clam knife to GENTLY lift the skirt from around your part.
** Now use the putty knife
*** Place the putty knife flat on the bed with the edge of the blade against the edge of your part.
*** Rap the end of the putty knife with a small hammer. A tap is all it takes and your part will pop off.
*** DO NOT pry your part from the bed. This will delaminate the bed and ruin it.

* Shutdown
** Do not pull your filament from the hot head. The head has probably cooled by now and you risk breaking off your filament in the print head.
** Instead, snip off your filament outside of the print head, leaving two inches of filament.
** When the bed is cool, use a damp paper towel to wipe off the bed. If you used glue, wipe until no more purple is seen on your towel.

=== LULZBOT TAZ 6 ===

Currently parked in Laser Lab. Has 1.75mm and 2.85mm extruder?

=== LULZBOT TAZ 6 (Dual Extruder) ===

Configured with dual 1.75mm extruders. Currently being tested and configured in Electronics Lab.

Has 1.75mm and 2.85mm dual extruders, and single extruder.

Cura LE loaded on Mac workstation. For working with dual filaments, select the models and use the Merge Models then slice.

==Makerbot==

Legacy printer, none of this type currently at Hacker Dojo

Step Sequencer

2024-08-28T02:19:45Z

Do'h: more display images

Building a 1U height (Intellijet), 85U width modular synthesizer sized unit.

16 steps (buttons), 0-5 volt, ideally 10-bit resolution.

Front panel jacks, input: CV, clock; output: CV, clock, gate. Potential additional expansion.

Buttons/modes: slide, ratchet, gate length, start/stop.

Switches could be mechanical keyboard switches, capacitive touch or other. Multipurpose knob, OLED, blinkie per step, maybe RGB backlighting/accent.

Processor could be ESP32, CH32Vx, RP2040, etc.

Intro to [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TjpO64iZ2Y&ab_channel=UnderdogElectronicMusicSchool Step Sequencer]

Standard Dimensions for Eurorack

[[File:Eurorack 1U 3U dimensions.png|800px]]

[[File:EuroRack 1U Open Space Rig - Copy.jpeg|800px]]

(Example of 1Ux85U on top, 2U width is 10mm per.)

[[File:EuroRack 1U Open Space - Copy.jpeg|800px]]

(Example of 1Ux85U on top, 2U width is 10mm per. Close up of unpopulated area of random size ~7 steps wide. Eurorack "Intellijet" standard sizing.)

[[File:ENGINE 16 Step Sequencer - Copy.jpeg|800px]]

(ENGINE stand alone 16 Step Sequencer with various configuration buttons and modes.)

[[File:Compact Jacks 3.5mm Mini Plugs - Copy.jpeg|800px]]

(Example of more jacks in less space. 1/8th inch | 3.5mm)

''Additional references for small displays...''

[[File:Disting EX.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Tall Dog braids and Shapeshifter.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Tall Dog OCSE.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Metropolix.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Metropolix Width.jpeg|800px]]

[[File:Metropolix Height.jpeg|800px]]

File:Metropolix Height.jpeg

2024-08-28T02:12:49Z

Do'h:

File:Metropolix Width.jpeg

2024-08-28T02:12:30Z

Do'h:

File:Metropolix.jpeg

2024-08-28T02:12:20Z

Do'h:

File:Tall Dog braids and Shapeshifter.jpeg

2024-08-28T02:11:53Z

Do'h:

File:Tall Dog OCSE.jpeg

2024-08-28T02:11:43Z

Do'h:

File:Disting EX.jpeg

2024-08-28T02:11:24Z

Do'h:

File:Eurorack 1U 3U dimensions.png

2024-08-28T02:10:51Z

Do'h:

3D Printers

2024-08-02T23:36:42Z

Do'h: /* Original Prusa i3 MK3S */

We have 3 3D printers in the makerspace. While 3D printers can be used in a variety of ways, we have some policies to keep our printers functioning well.

==Filament==

Your filament should be kept clean and dry. Dust and dirt on the filament will clog the hot print head and cause your print to fail.

===PLA and ABS===
Recommended for new users. The 3D printers can use other materials, but they each introduce some complexity to the print process. Until you are very familiar with 3D printing and how other materials affect the printing, use PLA and ABS.
* PLA easily absorbs water from the environment. PLA should be stored in a sealed plastic zip lock bag and you should add desiccant packages inside the bag.
* Never use glue on the bed with PLA or ABS.
* Never run PLA above 230C. Higher temperatures cause PLA to carbonize and permanently clog the print head.
* Do not let PLA sit in an idle hot print head for more than three minutes. Even at the specified working temperature PLA will carbonize and permanently clog the print head. (For instance, don't start the printer to heat up and then go out to get a cup of coffee.)

===PET-G===
A good material when you are ready to move up.
*PET-G comes in a variety of specific materials that offer more dimensional stability.
*PET-G requires the use of glue on the bed. The glue is NOT for adhesion. Rather, the glue is used to prevent the part from sticking to the bed and ruining it. If you don't use glue with PET-G you will ruin the print bed.
**Use a purple, washable Elmer's glue stick. Put on just a very, very, very think coat of the glue.
**Put the glue on while the bed is cool.
**Put the glue over a large part of the bed, but not near the corners.
**After you print one part you can position your print to a portion of the bed that has been glued, but has not been printed on yet.

=== TPU ===
* You MUST use glue for release with TPU.

===Strength===
There are different aspects to "strength", and no material wins in all categories. PLA is rigid, but that can make it brittle, so PLA is seldom the choice for parts needing strength. ABS has long been the choice for functional parts. The printed parts of the Lulzbot are made of ABS. So is Lego. But ABS warps, which is a problem on bigger prints. Nylon and polycarbonate have some great characteristics, but they are tricky to work with, and they aggressively absorb moisture from the air, so you have to keep baking your filament to dry it out. Scroll back to July 18 for some discussion of PC-MAX, a brand of polycarbonate. PET-G is really a wide range of materials, with a wide range of properties. I like ColorFab-HT, although it prints at high temperature, making warpage more of an issue. Most PET-G doesn't warp much at all. A lot of people rave about Innova-1800, although I always had a hard time getting it to stick to the bed. nGen is an easy-to-use PET-G. All of these can be used on the Lulzbot.

==3D Toolkit==
Consider making up your own 3D printer toolkit.
* hex wrenches
* putty knife
* long tweezers
* non-scratching, lint free wipes
* 30% isopropanol and water
* clam knife
* if you need it: Purple, washable Elmer's glue stick

== PRUSA ==

=== Original Prusa MINI ===

1.75mm Filament, 0.4mm Nozzle

Smooth heated print bed

Updated to last firmware, tested and calibrated April 2024

Updated to v6.0.4 firmware, tested and calibrated August 2024

=== Original Prusa i3 MK3S ===

1.75mm Filament, 0.4mm Nozzle

Smooth heated print bed

Updated to latest firmware, tested and calibrated April 2024

Updated to 3.14.0 firmware, tested and calibrated August 2024

=== Original Prusa i3, upgraded to MK3S ===

1.75mm Filament, 0.6mm Nozzle

Textured bed, adhesion sometimes inconsistent.

Updated to latest firmware, tested and calibrated April 2024

==TAZ==

The carriage frame of the TAZ must be square for the printer to work well. The TAZ should NOT be moved around the shop. Every time you move it you risk tweaking the frame. Leave the TAZ where it is!

The TAZ has a heated bed. The bed is easily scratched and damaged. Do not pull your part off the bed. Do not gouge at the bed. A new bed costs $150.

* Design
** You should print a skirt to 3, especially for small parts

* Start up
** While the bed is cool use the 30% alcohol solution and a paper towel to clean the bed of any residue from the previous user.
** Also clean the leveling spots on the four corners of the bed.
** Heat the nozzle to 200C
** When hot,
*** Pull the old filament from the print head
*** Insert your filament into the head.
*** Purge the print head by running filament. Don't be afraid of wasting filament, this is an important step.

* Operation
** As printing starts, watch the head and remove the "booger" of filament that forms before the actual printing starts. This will give you a cleaner start to your print.

* Part release
** Let the bed cool completely before releasing your part.
** Use the clam knife to GENTLY lift the skirt from around your part.
** Now use the putty knife
*** Place the putty knife flat on the bed with the edge of the blade against the edge of your part.
*** Rap the end of the putty knife with a small hammer. A tap is all it takes and your part will pop off.
*** DO NOT pry your part from the bed. This will delaminate the bed and ruin it.

* Shutdown
** Do not pull your filament from the hot head. The head has probably cooled by now and you risk breaking off your filament in the print head.
** Instead, snip off your filament outside of the print head, leaving two inches of filament.
** When the bed is cool, use a damp paper towel to wipe off the bed. If you used glue, wipe until no more purple is seen on your towel.

=== LULZBOT TAZ 6 ===

Currently parked in Laser Lab. Has 1.75mm and 2.85mm extruder?

=== LULZBOT TAZ 6 (Dual Extruder) ===

Configured with dual 1.75mm extruders. Currently being tested and configured in Electronics Lab.

Has 1.75mm and 2.85mm dual extruders, and single extruder.

Cura LE loaded on Mac workstation. For working with dual filaments, select the models and use the Merge Models then slice.

==Makerbot==

Legacy printer, none of this type currently at Hacker Dojo

3D Printers

2024-08-02T23:16:46Z

Do'h: /* Original Prusa MINI */

We have 3 3D printers in the makerspace. While 3D printers can be used in a variety of ways, we have some policies to keep our printers functioning well.

==Filament==

Your filament should be kept clean and dry. Dust and dirt on the filament will clog the hot print head and cause your print to fail.

===PLA and ABS===
Recommended for new users. The 3D printers can use other materials, but they each introduce some complexity to the print process. Until you are very familiar with 3D printing and how other materials affect the printing, use PLA and ABS.
* PLA easily absorbs water from the environment. PLA should be stored in a sealed plastic zip lock bag and you should add desiccant packages inside the bag.
* Never use glue on the bed with PLA or ABS.
* Never run PLA above 230C. Higher temperatures cause PLA to carbonize and permanently clog the print head.
* Do not let PLA sit in an idle hot print head for more than three minutes. Even at the specified working temperature PLA will carbonize and permanently clog the print head. (For instance, don't start the printer to heat up and then go out to get a cup of coffee.)

===PET-G===
A good material when you are ready to move up.
*PET-G comes in a variety of specific materials that offer more dimensional stability.
*PET-G requires the use of glue on the bed. The glue is NOT for adhesion. Rather, the glue is used to prevent the part from sticking to the bed and ruining it. If you don't use glue with PET-G you will ruin the print bed.
**Use a purple, washable Elmer's glue stick. Put on just a very, very, very think coat of the glue.
**Put the glue on while the bed is cool.
**Put the glue over a large part of the bed, but not near the corners.
**After you print one part you can position your print to a portion of the bed that has been glued, but has not been printed on yet.

=== TPU ===
* You MUST use glue for release with TPU.

===Strength===
There are different aspects to "strength", and no material wins in all categories. PLA is rigid, but that can make it brittle, so PLA is seldom the choice for parts needing strength. ABS has long been the choice for functional parts. The printed parts of the Lulzbot are made of ABS. So is Lego. But ABS warps, which is a problem on bigger prints. Nylon and polycarbonate have some great characteristics, but they are tricky to work with, and they aggressively absorb moisture from the air, so you have to keep baking your filament to dry it out. Scroll back to July 18 for some discussion of PC-MAX, a brand of polycarbonate. PET-G is really a wide range of materials, with a wide range of properties. I like ColorFab-HT, although it prints at high temperature, making warpage more of an issue. Most PET-G doesn't warp much at all. A lot of people rave about Innova-1800, although I always had a hard time getting it to stick to the bed. nGen is an easy-to-use PET-G. All of these can be used on the Lulzbot.

==3D Toolkit==
Consider making up your own 3D printer toolkit.
* hex wrenches
* putty knife
* long tweezers
* non-scratching, lint free wipes
* 30% isopropanol and water
* clam knife
* if you need it: Purple, washable Elmer's glue stick

== PRUSA ==

=== Original Prusa MINI ===

1.75mm Filament, 0.4mm Nozzle

Smooth heated print bed

Updated to last firmware, tested and calibrated April 2024

Updated to v6.0.4 firmware, tested and calibrated August 2024

=== Original Prusa i3 MK3S ===

1.75mm Filament, 0.4mm Nozzle

Smooth heated print bed

Updated to latest firmware, tested and calibrated April 2024

=== Original Prusa i3, upgraded to MK3S ===

1.75mm Filament, 0.6mm Nozzle

Textured bed, adhesion sometimes inconsistent.

Updated to latest firmware, tested and calibrated April 2024

==TAZ==

The carriage frame of the TAZ must be square for the printer to work well. The TAZ should NOT be moved around the shop. Every time you move it you risk tweaking the frame. Leave the TAZ where it is!

The TAZ has a heated bed. The bed is easily scratched and damaged. Do not pull your part off the bed. Do not gouge at the bed. A new bed costs $150.

* Design
** You should print a skirt to 3, especially for small parts

* Start up
** While the bed is cool use the 30% alcohol solution and a paper towel to clean the bed of any residue from the previous user.
** Also clean the leveling spots on the four corners of the bed.
** Heat the nozzle to 200C
** When hot,
*** Pull the old filament from the print head
*** Insert your filament into the head.
*** Purge the print head by running filament. Don't be afraid of wasting filament, this is an important step.

* Operation
** As printing starts, watch the head and remove the "booger" of filament that forms before the actual printing starts. This will give you a cleaner start to your print.

* Part release
** Let the bed cool completely before releasing your part.
** Use the clam knife to GENTLY lift the skirt from around your part.
** Now use the putty knife
*** Place the putty knife flat on the bed with the edge of the blade against the edge of your part.
*** Rap the end of the putty knife with a small hammer. A tap is all it takes and your part will pop off.
*** DO NOT pry your part from the bed. This will delaminate the bed and ruin it.

* Shutdown
** Do not pull your filament from the hot head. The head has probably cooled by now and you risk breaking off your filament in the print head.
** Instead, snip off your filament outside of the print head, leaving two inches of filament.
** When the bed is cool, use a damp paper towel to wipe off the bed. If you used glue, wipe until no more purple is seen on your towel.

=== LULZBOT TAZ 6 ===

Currently parked in Laser Lab. Has 1.75mm and 2.85mm extruder?

=== LULZBOT TAZ 6 (Dual Extruder) ===

Configured with dual 1.75mm extruders. Currently being tested and configured in Electronics Lab.

Has 1.75mm and 2.85mm dual extruders, and single extruder.

Cura LE loaded on Mac workstation. For working with dual filaments, select the models and use the Merge Models then slice.

==Makerbot==

Legacy printer, none of this type currently at Hacker Dojo

RECESSIM

2024-06-09T08:24:36Z

Do'h: hellorld("hardwear.io")

https://wiki.recessim.com/view/Main_Page

Hack Comedy

2024-05-25T15:59:39Z

Do'h: .... .. .... ..

[[File:Pirate.gif]]

https://www.instagram.com/hack.comedy/

File:Pirate.gif

2024-05-25T15:59:02Z

Do'h:

AI ML snowflake DEV DAY

2024-05-25T12:34:44Z

Do'h: Created page with " https://www.snowflake.com/summit/devday/ 🅱️📧🅰️⛎ "🏹 🚫 ↖" -... . ._ .._"

https://www.snowflake.com/summit/devday/

🅱️📧🅰️⛎ "🏹 🚫 ↖"

-... . ._ .._

QSV/Scanner

2024-05-06T20:55:12Z

Do'h: Created page with "Uniden SDS200 Digital Scanner Manual (pdf): https://www.uniden.info/download/ompdf/SDS200om.pdf PC Software Download: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0570/0177/1148/files/Setup_BCDx36HP_2685bbed-33ac-4250-a038-73427aa5a710.msi SD Card Fix (pdf): https://bearcatwarehouse.com/cdn/shop/files/SD_CARD_ERROR.pdf Setting up Sentinel Software video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJPAP_-LZHk"

Uniden SDS200 Digital Scanner

Manual (pdf): https://www.uniden.info/download/ompdf/SDS200om.pdf

PC Software Download: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0570/0177/1148/files/Setup_BCDx36HP_2685bbed-33ac-4250-a038-73427aa5a710.msi

SD Card Fix (pdf): https://bearcatwarehouse.com/cdn/shop/files/SD_CARD_ERROR.pdf

Setting up Sentinel Software video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJPAP_-LZHk

HAM

2024-05-06T20:50:36Z

Do'h: Do'h moved page HAM to QSV

#REDIRECT [[QSV]]